Air Pollution, Camel Safari's, and Big Crowds

From the beautiful, whimsical, romantic, and magical Udaipur I traveled to the overcrowded, polluted Jodhpur where I met up with Erin (the American girl from Udaipur). We spent the day exploring a humongous fort castle looming over a hazy, and blue spotted city, a modern palace, and a park littered with seemingly abandoned and beautiful hindu temples ruled over by hundreds, if not thousands of monkeys. The park was probably the best thing about Jodhpur.
By the time we returned to the city for dinner, we were both feeling nauseous with unhappy stomachs. We narrowed it down to the street vendor samsosa's, the immense air pollution in the city (breathing is cumbersome), or dehydration. In anycase, we were happy and eager to get out of there that night. A day in Jodhpur was plenty for me.
From there we ventured to Jaislamer which closely resembles a god-sized sandcastle. From a distance it appears like a sandcastle rising from a small city springing up amidst a desert. From the inside the fort reminded me of the high walls upon entering Jerusalem's Old City through the winding streets.
Joined by an Australian friend (Nikki) we headed out on a two day camel safari. We sat high and mighty upon our camels, stopping for an Indian lunch cooked over fire, and breaks for milk tea using freshly squeezed camel's milk. The desert was a flat brown landscape sprinkled with shrubs and sporadic hills - like the Negev surrounding Beer Sheva after a hot summer. Not exactly the saharan sand dunes I had envisioned.
We slept on (the only) sand dunes under a spectacular full moon that left our flashlights unpacked. Our camel drivers - a 12 year old boy and a middle aged man sat guard.
Breakfast was an incredibly delicious porridge and tea breakfast. We used biscuits to scoop the thin porridge to our mouths, as our guides had forgotten silverware. The day consisted of LOTS of riding and stops at two tiny villages along the way. The first was miniscule and the huts were made of cow poop, sand, and water... it was beautiful and serene and looked like an ancient village from a natural history museum display. The kids were energetic and playful and excited to play for the camera. I somehow managed to communicate with them and got some beautiful pictures...
The second village was a bit bigger with less children and houses made of bricks. The adults were just as eager to have their pictures and were sure to give me their postal address to ensure I sent them copies.
We finished the day with a jeep ride back to Jaislamer where we explored inside and outside the fort. Winding streets, vegetable markets, jewelry shops, and street vendors.
The next day Erin and I booked tickets to Delhi and explored 8 Jain temples called the seven sisters and brother. We also headed to a beautiful man made lake surrounded by desert scattered with trees.
The overnight train to Delhi was 24+ hours...all the trains to Agra were booked. In Delhi we were graciously welcomed and hosted by Erin's cousin's friend who practically shoved us into the shower, and rightly so. After such a long train ride with open windows through the desert our clothes were sandy and our hair matted. They prepared us lunch and we wandered into the city to see the Red Fort, which was closed but spectacular from the outside, and tremendous in size. We continued to the largest mosque in India which was also closed to women and tourists as we'd arrived at sunset just in time for the prayers. But it was also spectacular from the outside, as was the energy and buzz of the people surrounding it. We wandered through the adjacent marketplace which was (surprise) overcrowded and had a strange energy, we seemed out of place (even for India). As I looked around and saw almost solely destitute people and half naked children... I realized this was the dwelling area of the cities homeless. With the sun setting we found the nearest exit and departed.
We got a bicycle driven vehicle to take us through the main market place which is huge and separated into a different markets for silver, spices, fabrics, etc. It was massive and had the largest traffic jam I have ever seen. The patience of the bicycle carts waiting was impressive. We were beyond exhausted though and I tried to soak it in...
This morning we headed to Agra... where I sit now writing this email and burning my pics to a CD to make room for this new city. We have ourselves a rickshaw driver for the day.
Tomorrow afternoon I go to Pune for a week to assist teach an Art of Living course and then I head home on the 11th or 13th - not yet certain.
I miss Israel a lot and can't wait to get back... it's been an interesting journey being in India, loving it yet missing Israel and waiting to return. I never felt that was about the states and it makes me think that I'm probably in the right place... at least for now. This is just one of the many realizations and clarities I've had over the past three months.
My trip is wrapping itself up...
My next email may be my last...
love
Roni
ps. i just discovered that this email that i thought i sent on the 30th is still in my draft folder. i am now in pune assisting an art of living course. enjoying myself with 6 other teachers... more to come...
i head back to israel on the 11th of november... SOON!